This dress features a style based on the "Swiss waist" popular with fashionable young women during the Civil War era.

It is made from a brightly colored silk taffeta in shades of orange and pink with black and multicolored accents, reflecting the commercial availability in 1856 of the first synthetic dyes. These were made in much brighter colors than we expect today, two of the earliest, Magenta and Solferino (the latter also a dark hot pink shade), being named for battles in the Crimean War. Like the silk taffetas of the era, it is smooth textured, without the slubs and imperfections of the silk dupioni popular in modern times (In the mid 19th century, slubs were considered a sign inferior silk.)

Like all evening dresses of the era, the dress closes in the back rather than the front. This dress closes with hooks. 

The white underbodice is made from sheer cotton over a fitted lining and worked in one with the Swiss waist bodice.

Detailed view from the side, showing
the placement of the bow on the
sleeve opposite the diagonal sash.